Have you ever wanted to learn how to knit but never learned the basics? Here is a tutorial for the most essential knitting technique: the knit stitch. If you can’t watch the video right now, keep reading to see step-by-step photo instructions.
This video assumes you already know how to cast on. If you haven’t learned yet how to cast on, check out my videos on the backward loop cast-on and the cable cast-on.
How to knit the knit stitch
Cast on however many stitches you need for your project. In this example I have cast on 15 stitches using 3.75mm needles and an 8ply acrylic yarn.
There are four steps to knitting the knit stitch (NOTE: If you’re left-handed, follow these instructions but in mirror image – when I say left hand, use your right, and vice versa).
Step 1
Hold the needle with cast on stitches in your left hand, and the empty needle in your right hand. Insert the right hand needle into the top stitch of the left hand needle, from the bottom of the stitch, so the right hand needle comes out behind the left hand needle.
Step 2
Take the working yarn (the yarn which is attached to the ball of yarn) and wrap it upwards once around the front of the right hand needle.
Step 3
Pull the right hand needle out from behind the left hand needle (and out of the stitch), bringing the working yarn with it.
Step 4
Keep your new stitch on your right hand needle. Drop the first stitch off the left hand needle (the stitch you just worked into).
That’s it! Once you’ve worked a full row of knit stitch, simply swap your right hand needle into your left hand, and start again!
A piece of knitting that’s worked completely in knit stitch is called garter stitch. Check out my post on things to make from garter stitch squares. You might also like the free pattern to my Garter Be Kidding Me bow headband.
I hope you liked this video and tutorial 🙂 . I’m looking forward to sharing next week’s video with you – how to cast off!
Peace,
Kat
How to Knit | Cable Cast-On
Hi friends! Following on from my last post about the backwards loop cast-on, here is another “how to knit” video for you. This shows you how to cast on in knitting, which, after the backwards loop, I believe is the second easiest way to cast on in knitting.
Click here for the free pattern to the hot water bottle cover I show at the start of the video! Thank heavens the weather warmed up shortly after I filmed that video – I can’t wait for the spring!
HOW TO KNIT | Backward Loop Cast On
Hi guys! I wasn’t sure I’d ever do this kind of video/blog post, but I’ve decided to do a “how to knit” series for you! A lot of people (including myself once upon a time) say that they can knit but they don’t know how to cast on. Well, now you can, and you can enjoy all the benefits knitting has to offer you, like a way to relax, a way to make gifts for people you love, and a way to express your creativity.
This is my first video: the backwards loop cast on! It is a reeeeeaaalllly simple cast on method which is both versatile and easy for anyone of any age to master. Enjoy the video and please give it a like if you liked it, and subscribe to my channel if you’d like to see more “how to knit” videos!
Peace,
Kat
French Knitting Basics – With Video
Want a simple yarn project for young kids that doesn’t require all the patience of knitting? Here’s a tutorial for French knitting: how to make a sweet little loom for almost nothing, how to cast on, knit, and cast off. It was a favourite activity of mine when I was a little kid and I know lots of other children who have loved it, too.
This would be a great activity for a classroom art lesson, or for rainy day fun with your own kids.
First of all guys, sorry again for the delay in this video/post! My family was hit with a nasty bug. Baby bear got it first with an isolated vomit for an otherwise happy little girl. Daddy bear got it next, with a day and a half of feeling unwell and feverish. And in a rare turn of events, Mummy bear got the lion’s share: tummy bug of all tummy bugs and a lot of bed rest. Thank God for a husband who was willing and available to look after the baby. At least I could stay in bed while sick, unlike the time I got food poisoning on my last night in the Philippines and had to catch multiple flights while feeling like I was dying.
But, I’m well enough to write out this tutorial, which is great because I think you’ll really like it and I’m so excited to share it with you.
What is French knitting?
If you’re not familiar with what French knitting is, it’s basically using a small loom to knit a tube of knitting, kind of like an icord but without the double-pointed needles. You can use a store-bought little loom dolly, or when I was a kid, we always made them out of toilet paper rolls and popsicle sticks. Also, when I was a kid, we always called them tomboys, not french knitters. French knitting wasn’t in the vocabulary, although these days that seems like the only thing I hear it being called. Since moving away from my home state of South Australia, I’ve learned that sometimes we say things weird, so maybe it’s a regional thing. Is it, or have you heard of it being called a tomboy too?
What you’ll need
For the Loom/Tomboy/French knitting dolly
The essentials
- a toilet paper tube
- four to five popsicle sticks
- tape (masking tape is better than sticky tape)
The extras
- Coloured paper or cardstock
- Markers
- Glue stick
- Craft scissors
- or, any other embellishment you wish to use. Some options are: paint, gift wrap, contact paper, yarn and hot glue, contact paper, stickers, glitter, googly eyes (beware of choking hazards if babies or toddlers are present).
For the Knitting
- At least one ball of 8/10/12ply yarn
- Optional: A loom band hook or a crochet hook (3.5 or 4mm) to help you make the stitches (I prefer to just use my finger!)
- Craft scissors
- Darning/tapestry needle
How to make your french knitting loom
Take your toilet paper roll and use your tape to fasten your popsicle sticks evenly around the rim, with about an inch or so of stick poking out.
Make sure they’re pretty secure and that’s your basic tomboy finished.
Next, lets decorate! For mine, I drew a little face on a strip of cream-coloured paper, and some arms and clothes on a bigger pink strip, and then glued them onto the tube. That’s nice and simple, but like I say, you can be as creative as you like with decorating these. Use some googly eyes, glue on some real buttons, paint it. Whatever you like.
How to knit with a French knitting loom
To cast on, tie a slip knot, also called a quick release not, in the end of your yarn.
Loop that onto one of the popsicle sticks and pull it tight.
Take the yarn and loop it around all the other sticks, so that the yarn runs round the inside of the toilet paper tube, not the outside. This knot and these loops we’ll call your stitches.
When you get to the first popsicle stick, place the yarn in front of it and pull the first stitch over the yarn. This creates a new stitch, and the first stitch fall into the middle of the tube. Keep going all the way around. You can, if you prefer, use a crochet hook to pass the stitches over the sticks.
As you knit, you will end up with what look like a spider web of yarn going into the toilet paper tube.
Eventually you’ll end up with a nice thin icord of knitting coming out the bottom of your tomboy. You can make this as long as you like. To even out the stitches, pull on the end of the icord.
To join a new yarn simply tie the new yarn to the end of the old. In serious knitting, this is a bit of a no-no, but French knitting is all about getting kids into the fibre art world so I think tying knots is fine.
How to cast off
Cut the yarn, leaving a tail at least 10cm (4in) long. Thread the end of the tail through your darning needle and pass the thread through each of the live stitches on the loom, taking them off the loom as you do so. Pull the yarn tight. You may want to pass the needle underneath these stitches and tie a knot for added security.
Thanks for checking out this tutorial. I hope it helps you or some little ones you know to explore the fun of fibre arts. If you enjoyed this tutorial, please like the video and see my other videos on the knitkatpaddywhack YouTube channel.
Peace,
Kat
Knitted Leaves Tutorial and Video
Learn to make this really simple leaf pattern using just a few simple knitting techniques, with this knitted leaves tutorial.
So, I’ve been thinking for a while about starting a YouTube channel for simple knitting ideas and tips for new knitters or knitters wanting something easy to do. And guess what? I did it! The video above is my first ever Knitkatpaddywhack YouTube video!
I’ve used a version of this pattern to make the eaves on the brooch above. I’ve also made this leaf in wire to make earrings, pendants for my bridesmaids’ necklaces, and even the headpiece I wore to my wedding, to go with my hand-knitted gown. It’s the kind of pattern you can memorise quickly and make a whole lot of them in front of the TV.
Techniques needed
There are a few basic knitting techniques that I’m assuming you have for this pattern. These are:
- Casting on
- Knit
- Purl
- Make 1 to the right (m1R) and left (m1L)
- Slip, slip, knit (ssk)
- Knit 2 together (k2tog)
- Central double decrease
So let’s make this leaf!
Knitted Leaves Tutorial
Download the PDF here: Knitted Leaves Pattern
Yarn: A small amount of any yarn. The leaf in the image was made with 8ply acrylic yarn called Marvel by Moda Vera. If you’d like to try it in wire, I’d recommend 36 gauge beading wire held double.
Needles: Straight needles appropriate for your yarn. For guidance on the right size needles to use, look at the yarn’s ball band. You may also like to do a tension swatch to see how the yarn looks knitted in your needles.
Notions: Scissors, darning needle, row counter (optional)
CO 3 sts
Row 1: K1, m1r, k1, m1l, k1. 5 sts.
Row 2 and all even rows: P
Row 3: K2, m1r, k1, m1l, k2. 7 sts.
Row 5: K3, m1r, k1, m1l, k3. 9 sts.
Row 7: K4, m1r, k1, m1l, k4. 11 sts.
Row 9: K3, ssk, k1, k2tog, k3. 9 sts.
Row 11: K2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2. 7 sts.
Row 13: K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. 5 sts.
Row 15: Ssk, k1, k1tog. 3sts.
Row 17: Slip 2 tog, k1, psso (this is also called a central double decrease). 1 st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
So that’s all you need to make this simple little leaf. If you liked this pattern, please let me know in the comments below, and comment on the video too.
I’m hoping to post one to two videos a week on the Knitkatpaddywhack YouTube channel, so please like this video and subscribe to the channel if you’d like to see more simple knitting tutorials and knitting tips and recommendations.
Peace,
Kat
Colour Cube + Balls Educational Toy – Free Tutorial
I’ve got another garter stitch only project for you this week! I’ve had so much fun compiling garter stitch patterns from around the web, and sharing with you my Garter Be Kidding Me bow headband, that I couldn’t wait to share another garter stitch pattern with you. This easy little cube toy would be a great present for a toddler, and is a brilliant way to use up your left over 8ply acrylic yarn.
Today’s project is a really simple coloured toy cube, with matching coloured balls. They can be used in all kinds of ways.
- Throw the cube and ask your child to find the ball that matches the colour it lands on
- Throw the cube and get your child to find something else in the room that matches the colour
- Make lots of cubes and use them as building blocks
- Add some numbers or dots to the cube with felt to turn it into a die, and knit enough balls to match the number on each cube face to turn it into a number-learning toy
For those of you who are new to knitting, you may be wondering what I’m talking about when I say garter stitch. Garter stitch is the stitch that you get when you just knit “plain”, that first stitch everyone learns when they first start to knit. It creates a bumpy, reversible fabric. So if you’re a beginner knitter and want to know what to do with those random squares you’ve made in your practise, look no further than this post, and the ones I linked above.
You will need to know basic increasing and decreasing to make the balls, as well as some seaming techniques. Below are some links to tutorials for the techniques you’ll need to make this cube.
- Long tail cast on
- Basic cast off (aka bind off)
- Basic increase (knit front and back, or kfb)
- Basic decrease (knit two together, or k2tog)
- Whip stitch
- Mattress stitch
- Weaving in ends
Like I mentioned in last week’s Yarn Along post, my husband and I are seriously considering home schooling our little girl Peanut (don’t worry, not her real name) and any future siblings she may have. I was already interested in the way kids learn, being a psychologist by training and all, but thinking about home schooling now has me personally invested in a little person’s education. It’s both absolutely fascinating and daunting at the same time.
Peanut is 17 months old now and learning like a sponge. She’s only been talking for six months but she’s already learning lots of letter sounds, even recognising the written letter T and making the sound for it! So I’ve been thinking about ways to support this interest in learning, and I came up with this little toy. She doesn’t know her colours yet, but maybe she’ll learn them with the help of this toy!
The balls are made using my Knitted Sphere Tutorial, which is one of my most popular patterns on Ravelry. The only modification is that I made these balls in garter stitch rather than stocking (stockinette) stitch. The tutorial is a super useful tool for when you need to make spheres of any size for all kinds of projects (like the tail of my handspun rabbit-fur rabbit). So even though I’ll post a full tutorial for these coloured spheres down below, check out the general Knitted Sphere Tutorial as well, just for your future reference.
Alternatively, you could use made or bought pom poms instead of the knitted balls, however I think the balls will be longer lasting than any pom pom.
Here’s the pattern!
Colour Cube + Balls Educational Toy
WARNING: This toy contains small parts which could pose a choking hazard. Always supervise your children when they are using this toy.
Yarn: 8ply acrylic yarn in six colours. I used Moda Vera Marvel. You will need approximately 25g of yarn for each colour. Hayfield Baby Bonus DK, King Cole Big Value DK, and Stylecraft Special are good substitutes.
Needles: 3.75mm (UK 9/ US 5) straight needles
Tension: 19sts = 10cm in garter stitch
Other supplies:
- Toy stuffing (Poly-Fil)
- An 8cm x 8cm (3″ x 3″) square of foam or sponge. See below how I made and cut mine from a car washing sponge.
Notions:
- Scissors
- Darning needle
- Gel pen
- Ruler
- Serrated knife (for cutting sponge to shape)
Make the Foam Cube
I wanted to make this toy as washable as possible, but also affordable. If you have access to clean mattress foam, I think that would be ideal. If, however, you can’t find that, just use a car washing sponge like I did! It may not be machine washable (I have yet to test it out) but you can be sure it can be hand washed with little fuss.
You will need a large car washing sponge to make one 8cm (3″) cube. You want the width and length of the sponge to be at least 8cm (3″) each, but the height can be shorter. The one I used measured L: 21cm x W: 8cm at the narrowest x H: 5cm (L: 8.5″ x W: 3″ x H: 2″) and worked well for this project, and actually came in a set of two. Here is another option for a similar sponge.
Measure out an 8cm x 8cm (3″ x 3″) square on one end of the sponge, as far over to the edge as you can. I found that a gel pen was the best pen for marking the lines.
Use a serrated knife (a bread knife, for example) to cut out the square, all the way down the sponge.
If the height of the sponge is less than 8cm (3″), you will need to measure and cut another 8cm (3″) square from the leftover sponge and combine it with the first square. You may need to trim one of the pieces down if it is too high. There is no need to glue the two pieces, just stack one on top of the other.
Pattern
Make Faces of Cube
Make six cubes alike, one in each colour.
Using long-tail cast-on, cast on 15 sts. Work in stocking stitch until the piece is square, then cast off.
Assemble the Cube
Sew each face together into a cube shape using whip stitch, remembering to sew the foam cube into the centre of the cube. Weave in and hide all ends inside the cube.
Make Balls
Make six balls alike, one (or more, if you prefer) in each colour.
Using long-tail cast-on, cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: [kfb] to end. 6 sts.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: K all sts.
Row 3: [k1, kfb] to end. 9 sts.
Row 5: [k2, kfb] to end. 12 sts.
Row 7: [k3, kfb] to end. 15 sts.
Row 9: [k4, kfb] to end. 18 sts.
Rown 10-12: K all sts.
Row 13: [k4, k2tog] to end. 15 sts.
Rows 14, 16, 18, and 20: K all sts.
Row 15: [k3, k2tog] to end. 12 sts.
Row 17: [k2, k2tog] to end. 9 sts.
Row 19: [k1, k2tog] to end. 6 sts.
Row 21: [k2tog] to end. 3 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a 30cm tail. Thread the tail through a darning needle and pass through the three live sts on the knitting needle. Remove sts from the knitting needle and pull the thread tightly. Using mattress stitch, sew together the edges of the piece until the hole is nearly closed. Then turn the piece inside out, hiding the cast on tail inside the ball. Stuff with toy stuffing and then close up the hole using mattress or whip stitch. Weave in end and conceal end inside the ball.
That’s all, guys. Enjoy this project, and I’d love to see your own versions of this project on Ravelry.
Peace,
Kat
Please note that some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you click on the affiliate link and purchase the item.
Modifying a Knitting Pattern: Five Ideas as Demonstrated by my Baby’s Baptism Gown
Â
Some Background
1: Add Length
How to do it:
2: Add Width
How to do it:
3: Add More Buttons
Â
How to do it:
4: Add a Feature
Â
How to do it:
- A lace/cable/fancy pattern motif, maybe a panel down the front of a pullover.
- An intarsia design, like a star or a love heart on a child’s top.
- Some beading. See here and here for two ways to add beads to your knitting.
5: Expand on an Existing Feature
Â
How to do it:
How I do a Tension (Gauge) Swatch
I started a new project recently. It’s a pair of socks for my best friend from primary school. The first Christmas after I learned to knit, I made her a red lace scarf, the next year a red lace beanie, the next year red lace gloves, so this year for Christmas I’m making her red lace socks. Because I wanted to get the sizing right, I did a proper tension/gauge swatch, and I thought I’d share how I test my tension, and discuss a couple of other methods I’ve tried. To aid your understanding, please enjoy my very high quality MS Paint diagrams.
What is Tension/Gauge?
Tension (called “gauge” in the USA, and maybe Canada) refers to the amount of stitches and rows you can knit in a given area, on a given weight of yarn with a given needle size and stitch. For example, consider and 8 ply acrylic yarn, knit in stocking (stockinette) stitch on 4mm needles. Your average knitter will knit about 22 stitches and 28 rows in a 10cm X 10cm (4in X 4in) square. Of course, averages are statistical calculations, so don’t necessarily represent any real person’s tension. And as hand-knitters, our tension may well change day to day, row to row, or even stitch to stitch (hopefully it’s not too uneven though). This is why it’s important to check your tension.
I don’t always check my tension before starting a project, but I do believe that they’re important if you’re going to do something where accurate sizing is important.
Tension for Knitting Patterns
At the start of knitting patterns, the designer will almost always include a section for tension or gauge. These things usually look something like this:
Tension: 34 sts/48 rows = 10cm X 10cm in stocking stitch
Tension guides on knitting patterns usually quote expected numbers for a 10cm square, but sometimes will quote for a 1 inch (2.5cm) square. Similarly, tension guides usually give you expected tension for stocking stitch. However, some patterns, especially those with featured stitch patterns, like lace, will give you tension for that stitch pattern.
So, What is a Tension Swatch, then?
A tension swatch is a square that you knit in the recommended needle size and the yarn you are planning to use, to see if your knitting produces the same tension as those recommended. If you find that your swatch has more stitches and rows per 10cm square, your finished object will turn out too small. You’ll need to go up a needle size and knit another swatch to see if those needles are better. Conversely, if your swatch has fewer stitches and rows per square, your finished object will turn out too big, and you’ll need to go for a smaller needle size.
Great. So how do you do a tension swatch?
The Method I use: 15cm X 15cm (6in X 6in) Square
When I first learned to knit, I borrowed this book from my local library. It contained information for how to do a tension swatch. I’ve tried other methods, but I still turn to the method described in this book for my “Gold standard” of tension. So this is how I do it.
- Plan a 15cm X 15cm swatch (not 10cm). Why? You’re not bound to get an accurate count of your stitches and rows since edge stitches often curl round the edges, and I don’t know if it’s just me, but my selvedge stitch are looser than the others. Also, if your tension turns out to be tighter than that given by the pattern, your square will be smaller than 10cm squared and you won’t know how far off you are.
To calculate what is a 15cm square, multiply the stitches and rows from the pattern’s tension guide by 1.5. So, if your pattern says that 20sts X 30 rows makes 10cm squared, you would cast on 30sts and work in stocking stitch for 45 rows. If your tension is dead on the guide, your square will be a 15cm square.
- Once you have done this swatch, it will be curly, as stocking stitch is. Since you’re bothering to do a tension swatch, you’re probably planning on bothering to block or steam your finished project. Therefore, you need to block or steam your swatch. You might also want to beat up the swatch a little too, to imitate everyday wear and tear, since knitted objects may stretch over time. I will usually block swatches properly, washing briefly in warm water and laundry liquid, then rinsing in warm water. However for this pattern, I couldn’t be bothered going to those lengths, so instead I thoroughly washed the swatch in warm water and squeezed it out. See my diagram for how I did it:
- The garter stitch border method: I read once that because stocking stitch curls, it’s a good idea to knit a border of garter stitch around the stocking stitch bit that you will count your tension from. I’ve tried this. I don’t recommend it. I did a garter stitch bordered swatch, blocked it and counted, and was really surprised that my tension was much looser than the guide, when it is usually pretty much spot on, if not a little bit tight. So, I did another swatch with no stocking stitch and my tension was back to normal. Conclusion: By starting off with a few garter stitch rows, garter stitch being a looser stitch than stocking stitch, you’ve established a looser tension. If you want to try it, here is a picture:
- The half-arsed method: I do this pretty often. You start knitting a swatch then can’t be bothered finishing, or you don’t want to break the yarn. So, you cast off, not pulling the yarn the whole way through the last cast off stitch (so you can unravel it later) and count your stitches and rows from the portion of swatch you’ve done (you can figure out the per-inch tension if you don’t have a 10cm portion). Not as accurate as doing a proper and blocked/steamed swatch, but it does give you an idea.
I save my tension swatches and am planning to turn them into a blanket when I have enough. I have some half-arsed ones that I might also put in the blanket, I haven’t decided yet.
Troubleshooting
- My stitch tension is ok but my row tension is wrong! Help!
- Yeah, this happens to me. Here’s a little trick: If your pattern is something which is knit sideways, then you should pay more attention to your row count over your stitch count. For other patterns, those knit top down or bottom up, stitch count is important. This is especially true for garments. If your row count is ridiculously different from the tension guide, you might want to consider adapting the pattern itself.
That’s all. Here’s a picture of a beetle:
Learn How to Make a 45 Degree Angle Lazy Kate
Another spinning-related post here: it’s a DIY on how to make a 45 degree angle Lazy Kate! For quite a while now, since I learned of their existence in The Intentional Spinner, I have wanted a Lazy Kate on which bobbins of yarn slant at a 45 degree angle. This makes the yarn come off smoothly and prevents the bobbins over-spinning. For non-initiated readers, here are some definitions so you can follow what I’m talking about.
Lazy Kate: A Lazy Kate (love the name) is a wooden stand that you put bobbins of yarn on so that they will unwind as you ply the yarns together.
Bobbin: A bobbin is the thing that newly-spun yarn is wound around on a spinning wheel. It is essentially a large wooden spool, and you can think of the yarn is the thread.
I went crazy with online buying recently and on the same day that I bought my Craftsy course from the last post, I bought three bobbins online. I previously only owned three bobbins, so the most plys I could spin were 2-ply, or 3-ply if I use Navajo plying. My wheel is an Ashford Traditional single-drive wheel, so I bought the Ashford standard bobbins, from the eBay seller ropes546, who is excellent and even sent with my bobbins a copy of a spinning magazine called The Wheel. I bought unstained ones as they’d be about $5 more expensive each if I were going to buy them lacquered. So, I thought, I’m going to have to buy stain and/or varnish for these bobbins anyway, so I may as well make my own 45 degree angle Lazy Kate and use up the whole pot (actually, I used barely any of the pot).
As I am so nice, I’ve decided to give you a little step-by-step tutorial on how to make a 45 Degree angle Lazy Kate like mine.
How to Make Your Lazy Kate
You will Need
Materials (and approximate cost):
- Wooden door plaque about 30cm long, 8-10cm high and at least 1cm thick….$3
- 90cm length of dowel, 0.6cm in diameter…$2
- Wood stain. I used Intergrain NaturalStain in Merbau and I bought a sample pot…$10
- Two wooden craft letter “V”s about 5cm high (I searched high and low for suitable 45 degree angled triangles of wood. I wasn’t going to faff around with a saw trying to cut a piece of wood at an angle. I ended up finding these “V”s at Cheap as Chips and when I held two together I found that they made a 90 degree angle and therefore individually were 45 degrees. Bingo. They are made of kind of pulped up wood, like super-duper-thick-and-dense cardboard, making them easy to sand down. The plaque is made of similar material)…$2
 |
| A picture of some of the supplies you will need. Dog is optional. |
 Tools:
- Saw
- Sandpaper (I like a sheet rather than a block so you can tear it up to do the fiddly bits.)
- Power drill
- 0.6cm/quarter-inch-ish drill bit (I’ll tell you a secret: I knew my dowel was 0.6cm across so I was looking for a drill bit (that I already owned) that was equal to or slightly larger than this size. The best I could find was 7/32 of an inch. “That’s nearly 0.6cm,” I said to myself, little realising that 7/32 of an inch is slightly less than, not slightly more than, 0.6cm. Doiiiii. I ended up finding a screwdriver that was exactly 0.6cm across and expanding my already-drilled holes by forcing the screwdriver through them. It worked well, as the dowels fitted in very snugly and didn’t need to be glued in. Not gluing them in will make them easier to replace).
- Strong adhesive. I used Parfix Fast Grip (in a much smaller tube than the pot shown). I used the wet adhesive instructions rather than the contact adhesive instructions. Liquid Nails would also work.
- Paint brush to apply the wood stain
- Newspaper for the messy work
- Small flat piece of rigid plastic to stir wood stain.
- Pencil
- Ruler
- Eraser
What to Do
- Â Mark off three 20cm lengths on your dowel. Save the rest in case you need to replace a dowel later on.
- Cut these three lengths from the dowel. Sand down the ends. I sanded one end round and one end flat. See Fig 1.
Fig 1. How I sanded my dowels (two rounded and one flat end) - Â Take the wooden plaque. Sand off any rough bits. Measure and mark a line running along the middle of the plaque along its length. See Fig 2.
- Â Mark three points evenly spaced along this line. These will be where you will drill holes for the dowels. My plaque was about 30cm long. I put the two end holes about 4cm from the edges and the middle one equally distanced between these two. See Fig 3.
Fig 2. Centre line running the length of the plaque  - Taking your power drill (with correctly-sized drill bit), drill holes in each of these three marks. Sand off any rough bits. Erase pencil marks.
- Insert dowels into holes. Have the flat end of each dowel flush with the back of the plaque, with the rounded end sticking out. Because my holes were the exact same size as the dowels, I did not need to glue them in. This will also make it easier to replace them if need be. If your holes are slightly larger than your dowels, you may need to use your strong adhesive to secure the dowels in place. Sand off the back of the plaque where the dowels poke out to make it smooth.
Fig 3. Close-up of mark for drill holes - Â Saw outer serifs off letter “V”s. Sand them down so that the serif stubs are flush with the rest of the outside of the “V”.
- Turn plaque over so you are looking at the back of it. Mark two lines on either side of the plaque. This is where the “V”s will be placed. It doesn’t matter too much how far apart they are, just as long as they are parallel and when attached make the Lazy Kate stand sturdily and at a 45-degree angle. You figure it out. See Fig 4.
Fig 4. Placement of letter “V”s - Glue letter “V”s to Lazy Kate along these points with heavy-duty adhesive. As well as putting glue on the surfaces touching each other, I ran a line of glue down the sides of each “V” once it was stuck on, to reinforce them. Erase pencil marks. Allow to dry.
- Stain Lazy Kate according to instructions. Allow to dry. Enjoy. See Figs 5. and 6.
So there it is, my tutorial for a 45 degree angle Lazy Kate. I hope you enjoy making yours as much as I did mine.
Peace,
Kat
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| Fig 6. Lazy Kate with two of my new bobbins on it |
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| Fig 5. Completed Lazy Kate |